We left quite late in the day. We would have gone earlier but we had to wait for my wife’s niece, Jig, who came all the way from Manila. It was past 9:00 a.m. when we left Naga. At the bus terminal we could have chosen to ride an aircon van but some of our companions chose to ride the jeepney because it was supposed to be cheaper by PHP 15 and for fear of riding a hot aircon van. It took us 2 1/2 hours from Naga to Sabang. (We found out on the way home that the GT Express aircon van was really cool, comfortable, and fast taking us only 1 1/2 hours for only PHP 75, just PHP 10 more!)

Survivor Staff (European Edition). We found them at Paniman Beach planning their shoots.
Tip: Take the aircon van from Naga to Sabang. It’s worth it! If you’re coming from Manila, take the bus that goes straight to Sabang. Sabang is a small port.
We could have had lunch there but the boat trips to Guijalo were two hours apart. The next boat was loading and was about to leave. We decided to have lunch on the boat. All 10 of us (six adults, two young teens, and two little children) squeezed into the passenger room right behind the boat captain. How we managed to eat in such a cramped space, I don’t know. The small boat took 2 1/2 hours.
We passed a gorgeous island with a very inviting beach along the way. Little did I know that that was a foretaste of what we would see the following day. We reached Guijalo at high tide so we didn’t have any problems disembarking.
From the port we took two tricycles for PHP 35 each person to Barangay Paniman, Caramoan. But when we reached Caramoan centro, the tricycle my wife and I was riding wanted us to transfer to the tricycle the rest of our group was on. No way! The other vehicle was already packed. There was no way we could join them! We decided to get rid of the first tricycle and found another one waiting for passengers. Since the rate was a special trip of five passengers, we took three of our companions from the other vehicle. We paid PHP 100 for the bumpy 30 minute ride on the rough road from centro to Paniman.
Tip: If you can figure out the high tide schedule before your trip, go when it’s high tide. If you arrive at Guijalo during low tide, you will have to hire a small banca for PHP 5 per passenger. The steps at the Guijalo port are super-slippery! I slipped on our way home and am now nursing a bruised tail-bone. Man, it hurts!
Tip: From Guijalo port, take a jeep or tricycle to Caramoan centro for only PHP 15. Take another tricycle to Paniman for PHP 100 special rate per trip. You can have up to five passengers on this trip.
Here’s a list of fares and travel time to Paniman:
- Naga to Sabang by aircon van PHP 75 (1.5 hrs)
- Sabang to Guijalo by boat PHP 120 (2.5 hrs by small craft; 1.5 hrs by large craft)
- Guijalo to Caramoan by jeep or tricycle PHP 15 (15 min)
- Caramoan to Paniman by tricycle PHP 100 per trip maximum of 5 passengers (30 min)
It costs the same for the return trip to Naga.
Paniman Beach, Caramo-an, Camarines Sur
We stayed at my wife’s uncle in Paniman so we didn’t have any problems finding a place to stay. There are no hotels or pension houses in Paniman. You either have to have relatives there, camp out by the sea, or find a villager who is willing to take you in for a fee. There are small variety stores where you can buy rice, bread, filtered water, soft drinks, hard drinks, and canned goods. There is at least one public well where you can get fresh water for bathing. But you will have to use a small plastic pail attached to a more than 10 foot long bamboo pole to get fresh water at the bottom of the well. Enjoy!
The beach at Paniman is brown but fine sand. There is a wide camping space with no facilities at the southern end of the beach. And, there is a clean river that flows into the bay right beside that camping space. It’s quite a view.
The following day, we hired a boat for PHP 700 to go island hopping. We would have gone to Gota Beach, which the provincial government is advertising, but it was closed for major renovation. We wanted to go to the other islands (there are seven of them) but the bankero (the one driving the boat) was so fearful of the security guards around the islands. Talk around the village was that the French who managed the Survivor team (European edition) was very strict and didn’t want anyone on the islands. So our bankero didn’t even want to be accosted by anyone driving around on speedboats.
Island Tour. Small eagle-inhabited island off Paniman (left and middle). Gota Beach (right).
He took us to Kabuntunan Beach where there was a fresh water spring. But no one in our group wanted to get off the boat when we got there. Instead, we tried to get the attention of one of the speedboats driving by. The speedboat ignored us. So we coerced our bankero to take us to Bichara island. We were hoping that a speedboat would accost us so we could inquire about any regulations or prohibitions imposed by the government.
Cultural observation: Bicolanos are known to be masusupogun (shy). One of the good effects of this regional trait is that Bicolanos are very respectful of their elderly. One of the bad effects of this trait is an irrational fear of authority. They are quick to assume that something is prohibited instead of asking for more information.
Being from Manila, we had learned to stand up for our rights and ask for more information. Asking for information is not prohibited by the law. And, enjoying our natural resources is not prohibited if we have not been informed by government authorities of any prohibition.
Bichara Island. Hammock left by Survivor Team (2nd photo).
Later, while we were swimming at Bichara Island, a speedboat arrived. One of the French Survivor staff was onboard. He was there to pick up a hammock their team had left behind. We met him on the beach and inquired about any restrictions. He informed us that they had rented the islands from the government for their filming but that they were leaving the following day. They were no longer using Bichara Island or Matukad Island for their shooting. He said with a smile, “I didn’t see you, and I didn’t hear you.” That meant we were free to enjoy the islands! (My wife complained later, “Why do we have to ask permission from the French so we can enjoy our own islands?”)
Two other boats loaded with vacationers arrived on Bichara before lunch. After lunch, we decided to move on to Matukad Island. We had heard so much about Matukad that we didn’t want to pass up the opportunity. As soon as we moved on to Matukad, the two other boats followed suit.
Matukad was no disappointment. The white sand was as fine as white sugar. The water was crystal clear, and there were lots of rock overhangs to discover. There’s also lots of vegetation on the island making it suitable for overnight camping.

Kabuntunan Beach. Fresh water and young coconuts (buko in Filipino, malinghod in the local language) are available here.
After a few hours lying in the shade after lunch, we decided to go to Kabuntunan Beach where there is flowing fresh spring water to wash up, then head on back to Paniman. We haggled with the bankero so we could come back to the island for overnight camping. We settled for PHP 800 overnight trip. (The day boat tour cost us PHP 700.)
We had dinner at Paniman before heading back to Matukad in the dark. It was my first experience boating in the dark (around 8:00 p.m.). My wife lived in a fishing village when she was young and she often recounts being out at sea fishing with her dad at around 7:00 p.m. and looking fearfully into the utter darkness of the sea.
Tip: To go on overnight camping at Matukad, bring the following:
- tent
- spade (for private necessities in the wild)
- dinner & breakfast
- dining utensils (or use your hands)
- karaba (kerosene-fueled-gin-bottle-with-wick)
- match or lighter
- drinking water
Tip: There is no fresh water on the islands for drinking or for washing. You have to go to Kabuntunan Beach where there is flowing fresh spring water.
The sea water is unusually clean. (I hope it stays that way.) We didn’t feel sticky after swimming in the sea, so there’s really no need to wash up after swimming.

Sunrise at Matukad Island.
The following morning we had a fantastic view of the sunrise behind the islands scattered on the horizon. The water was surprisingly warm and very inviting so I immediately took a swim at 5:00 a.m. without waiting for the others. My wife and daughter joined me an hour later. We left the island at 8:00 a.m. to wash up at Kabuntunan Beach and head on to Paniman. From Paniman you can take a tricycle for PHP 100 special trip to Caramoan centro.

Sunrise at Matukad Island.
Tip: Be sure to make this travel arrangement the day before as there are few tricycles based in Paniman. Don’t fall for the PHP 700 jeep rate to Guijalo port.
Tip: At Caramoan centro, the best place for a meal is at Lutong Bahay restuarant which is just along the main road. It’s nice and clean, and they serve delicious natong, the Bicol name for laing (yam leaves cooked in coconut milk).
If you’re looking to party or parade on the beach, Boracay is the place for you. Otherwise, if you want a quiet beach on an almost private island with crystal clear sea water, go to Paniman and go overnight on one of the islands. It’s unforgettable. Personally, I want to go back and stay for 2-3 nights. (But let’s keep this a secret. We don’t want a thousand tourists showing up at the same time wanting to stay overnight on the few serene islands!)